At Primalscapes, we offer four fantastic backcountry skiing destinations you may have never considered or even heard about. Here’s a quick comparison to help you choose your next season’s powder paradise.
Kyrgyzstan, Jyrgalan
Come here for: Quite possibly, the world’s raddest ski experience: horseback-accessed skiing, stays in heated nomad yurts at the foothills of the ‘celestial mountains’ of Tian Shan, sunny weather, spectacular ridge walks with 7,000m peaks on the horizon, snowcat- and skidoo-assisted skiing, traditional eagle hunters, and even kayaking on Issyk-Kul, the world’s second-largest alpine lake.
Terrain: Think Silvretta, Austrian Alps — just without the crowds. Expect short approaches, gentle textbook ski touring terrain, no need for kick turns, and small patches of juniper forest. The highest elevation on ski tour is around 3,200-3,900m.
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Snow: Unique sugar-like faceted crystals that feel like bottomless powder — pure joy on skis!
Competition: Virtually none. And while based in the yurt, you’ll have the entire area to yourself.
Vibe: Raw undiluted adventure in the land of nomads.
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Where to stay: In Jyrgalan village, several guesthouses offer twin-bed ensuite rooms as well as cheaper dorm accommodation. Some options are ski-in/ski-out and others require a short walk. There are also skidoo-accessed yurt camps, enabling access to untracked slopes as private as it gets. Multiday touring is a possibility for stronger teams. Or base yourself in the charming town of Karakol for wild resort laps and sidecountry skiing.
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Getting there: Turkish Airlines and Pegasus offer overnight flights to Bishkek via Istanbul. Spend a day exploring the city’s Soviet brutalist architecture before driving 6 hours along the shores of Issyk-Kul.
When to go: Early January to late February.
Georgia, Svaneti
Come here for: Jaw-dropping views of Himalayan-scale mountain faces, cuisine to die for, UNESCO-listed medieval defense towers and Orthodox churches — yet world’s most unorthodox winemaking.
Terrain: Good enough to host the Freeride World Tour for two years running. Due to the sheer scale of the mountains, lots of tempting slopes are heli-access only. Still there is plenty of stuff to keep you excited for a week regardless of ski ability, including some epic lines off lifts and absolutely legendary glacier touring. The elevation gain on the touring routes is up to 1,900m reaching up to 3,500m while most slopes are 30-40 degrees steep. Hut-to-hut multiday routes are potentially available for stronger teams.
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Snow: Not very deep — but fluffier and more forgiving than in the Alps.
Competition: Noticeable, whether or not you are a FWT skier. You are likely to share a bowl with one or more groups.
Vibe: The bustling streets of Mestia, lined with shops and restaurants, might make you feel like you’ve landed in a small Eastern European town. But don’t be fooled — the snow-covered defense towers, mirroring the dramatic snow-capped peaks, will remind you that you’re on the edge of something vast and untamed.
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Where to stay: Choose online from a huge selection of family-run guesthouses in Svaneti’s main village of Mestia to stay closer to lively cafes and the two small ski resorts. Or head to the 2,200m-high sleeping village of Ushguli for more north-facing slopes, stays at 12th century stone houses with wood burning stoves, selfies with horse-riding local kids, and dodging manure piles.
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Getting there: A 5-hour scenic drive from Kutaisi to Mestia — not bad for a place that was cut off from the world every winter until recently. Fly into Kutaisi with WizzAir or Pegasus. On the way home, hit the lively capital of Tbilisi for a wine tour or art galleries, then jump on an EasyJet flight back to London. All in for about €350-400 return.
When to go: Early February to late March for snow — or July-October for world-class trekking and alpine climbing!
Kazakhstan, Ridder
Come here for: Shredding crème de la crème pow through primeval larch woods. Free touring and cat skiing that rivals BC, Canada.
Terrain: Think Revelstoke, Canada — with 2,000-2,700m tabletops clustered in five distinct ranges. Most skiing is below treeline through sparse conifer glades and wide chutes. The slopes are mellow yet fun, around 25-30 degrees steep and 200-400m vertical descent.
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Snow: Deep and feathery cold smoke powder — bring your fat planks for effortless surfing! In December, this often comes with cold snaps dipping to −20ºC to −30ºC, but thanks to the dry air, it feels surprisingly manageable.
Competition: Next to none. Bumping into another group is about as rare as spotting a yeti.
Vibe: Geographically and ethnically, this corner of Kazakhstan is Siberia! Expect snow-plastered conifer forests, steaming bear dens, Orthodox churches, a charming Soviet mining town, traditional steam saunas, vodka, and burly men in fur hats.
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Where to stay: Luxury lodges with direct access to snowcats — or authentic off-grid log cabins, perfect for touring.
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Getting there: Bi-weekly direct flights from Heathrow to Almaty, Kazakhstan’s bustling cultural hub. From there, it’s a short domestic hop followed by a 2-hour drive into the mountains. About €600-650 roundtrip.
When to go: Reliable powder season is from early December until mid-March. Treat yourself to an early season starter – but book the December weeks well in advance!
Turkey, Kaçkar
Come here for: Big-mountain lines, oriental vibes and modest cat skiing ops.
Terrain: Picture the Queyras in the French Alps or scaled-up Pyrenees. There are multiple north-facing bowls with numerous skiable faces and chutes accessible on day tours from your lodge. The upper sections are proper steep at 35-45º, but they mellow out fast. Most runs are in the alpine zone, with a sliver of lush conifer forest saved for cat skiing. Daily verticals range from 1,000 to 1,400m, often with kick-turns. You’ll max out at around 3,200m.
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Snow: Moist maritime powder, reasonably stable. It dumps hard in February — expect deep snow, with storms rolling through every couple of days.
Competition: Other groups are about, but untracked lines are still easy to bag..
Vibe: The village feels abandoned in winter but mesmerizing calls to prayer remind you — you’re still in Turkey!
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Where to stay: Two cosy lodges await in the villages of Yaylalar (1,900m) and Olgunlar (2,100m), run by warm-hearted locals. Expect twin ensuite rooms and roomy common areas heated by wood-burners. Turkish buffet breakfasts are monumental, and the evening meals don’t disappoint either.
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Getting there: Fly to Trabzon or Erzurum with Turkish Airlines or Pegasus via Istanbul, then enjoy a 3-4 hour scenic drive. From Trabzon, stop off at the 4th-century Sumela Monastery, clinging to a cliff and decked out with well preserved Byzantine frescoes.
When to go: Late January to early March.