€1440
excl. of flights
late June-late September, 10 days
Georgia, visa-free.
Strenuous, PD grade
2-6 participants
-5 to -15 °C on the summit, strong winds
Flights to Tbilisi (TBS) airport
Discounts for couples and groups
Kazbek, a dormant stratovolcano, is an excellent choice for your first 5,000m peak. It is not on the ‘7 Summits’ list and thus spared from hordes of eager mountaineers. Climbing Kazbek involves roped glacier travel with a short steeper section before the summit.
Pack horses carry most of your gear, making the approach hike truly enjoyable. An extra night at Gudauri ski resort promotes mild acclimatization, considerably improving your summit chances.
Am I fit enough for the climb?
Would you agree that your first 5,000 m peak does not have to be the highest on the continent? Perhaps you are seeking refreshing experience without the overindulging infrastructure of the Alps and you are not ready for a Himalayan expedition yet? Or maybe you like combining climbing with cultural trips? Consider climbing Mt Kazbek from Georgia with us!
This trip is suitable for a reasonably fit and healthy person without previous experience at altitude, thanks to our generously long itinerary which increases your summit chances by providing milder acclimatization. On the summit day you will be moving together as a roped team, with crampons and ice axes. Just below the summit there is a short icy section about 30-35 degrees steep where the guide will normally place a fixed rope, necessitating the use of a jumar. The day before climb the guide will provide an introduction course into safe glacier travel.
In the morning our driver takes you to Gudauri ski resort in about 3 hours. There you leave your stuff at the hotel and go for an easy self-guided acclimatization hike to Sadzeli peak at 3,200m. It may be possible to use a chairlift.
In the morning our driver takes you to Kazbegi village at 1,750m in about 45 minutes. There you meet your mountain guide, rent personal gear if needed and leave any unnecessary stuff at the guesthouse.
Then our driver takes you to the iconic (pun intended!) Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170m which dates back to 14th century. There we load most of our gear on pack horses and hike to a convenient campsite located at circa 3,000m. We spend the night in tents with meals cooked by the guide.
Distance: 5km, 880m elevation gain.
Following the rough trail along the moraine, we quickly reach the ice. Usually, the glacier is free of snow so the few crevasses are easy to get around. However, crampons are necessary — after all, our horses have horseshoes that prevent them from slipping! Having crossed the glacier, we then climb the steep lateral moraine until we camp by Bethlemi hut — a lasting two-storey piece of architecture built in 1941 as a meteorological station and also used as a refuge.
Distance: 3.5km, 670m elevation gain.
Today is very important for our acclimatization. Weather permitting, we will ascend mount Ortsveri 4,365m just opposite Kazbek. The climb usually takes 4-5 hours to the summit. On the way we have a chance to test our equipment and practice safe glacier travel skills.
Distance: 7km, 500m up and down.
We recuperate during the rest day which considerably increases our chances of a successful climb. Based on the weather forecast and the group’s acclimatization & fitness, it may be possible to make a summit attempt today.
Distance: 13km, 1350m up and down.
Setting out for the climb at around 2AM, we circumnavigate Mount Kazbek under the bright stars, traversing the Ortsveri glacier for about 4km from Bethlemi hut, slowly gaining altitude. There are many crevasses in the glacier and later in the season snow bridges may be weak so traveling on a tight rope and ready to self-arrest is essential.
In about 3-4 hours we reach the huge Maili snow plateau at 4,500m altitude, northwest of Kazbek. Here we marvel at a dramatic sunrise above the snowfields and glaciers of the Great Caucasus mountain range. From the plateau, it usually takes about 2 hours to ascend the saddle between the two summits of Kazbek at about 4,900m.
The final section is about 30-35 degrees steep and can be icy at maximum Alpine grade PD+, in which case the guide will fix the ropes. At the top, we are granted a stunning view of the Caucasus range stretching for some 200 kilometers ahead towards the twin snow cap of Elbrus. Overall it usually takes about 6-8 hours from Bethlemi Hut to climb Kazbek’s summit and about 4 hours to descend back to the hut.
After breakfast, we descend to Kazbegi village and our guesthouse in about 4 hours. There it becomes apparent that a hot shower is one of the main achievements of civilization! In the village there are many cafes, souvenir shops and restaurants. We share our farewell dinner in one of them.
On the way, it’s worth stopping at a 16th-century castle and monastery at Annanuri. Instead of Tbilisi, you could stay at Mtskheta, the ancient capital of Georgia, with its Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — one of the most sacred places in Georgia and a UNESCO heritage site.
Transfer to the airport flight back home. Pub bragging of a successful ascent of Mt. Kazbek.
Your guides
Anna Drozhzhina, an experienced trek leader and an aspiring mountain/ski guide, a student of Kyrgyzstan Mountain Guides Association (KMGA/IFMGA), now based in Budapest, Hungary. Considerable experience working as a lead guide on Elbrus (over 30 climbs from South, North and West), Kazbek and Kamchatka. Certified first-aider. Speaks English and French.
Andrew Golovachev, an IFMGA aspirant ski guide within the guides’ association of Kyrgyzstan, an avid alpine climber, and devoted adventure photographer.
Ran treks, climbs, ski tours and expeditions to Tajikistan Pamirs, Patagonia, Peru, Morocco, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Siberia, Caucasus and Kamchatka. A full member of the British Alpine Club. Professional avalanche education: equivalent of Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1 certificate.
Visited over 40 countries, lived in the UK for four years. Certified first-aider.
Booking terms
Sounds exciting? It truly is! We love the place and would be happy to share it with you. Should you have any questions, please check out our FAQ section below. Alternatively, don’t hesitate to send us your inquiry using the contact form or WhatsApp.
Our groups are small, so we require financial commitment from the participants in the form of two deposits made via SEPA bank transfer or Paypal. The first deposit of $140 is paid to secure your place in the group. The second deposit of $280 is due three months before the trip and goes towards accommodation and transfer pre-payment. The remaining balance is paid in cash upon arrival.
Cancellation policy
If you need to cancel your trip 60 days or less before departure because you are prevented from travelling due to:
1) a government banning non-essential travel to the destination or imposing a quarantine for vaccinated upon arrival upon return from the destination country, or
2) a national or local lockdown
We will put your deposits in full towards a future trip with us, this year or the next year.
The above does not apply in the following cases:
– You or a family member is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to self-isolate, which prevents you from travelling.
– A close relative is diagnosed with Covid and you are required to care for them.
– You are denied boarding to your flight due to failing Covid checks.
– You are unable to join your trip due to not fully complying with the testing or vaccination requirements to enter the destination country.
We strongly recommend taking out a travel insurance with specific Covid-19 cancellation and curtailment provision which is now available from many reputable providers.
We also promise a 14-day risk-free booking window: you can cancel at any point within two weeks after you put down the first deposit. This buys you time to sort out vacation and flights, to bring in your friends, etc. and not have to worry about someone else taking your spot on the trip.
In case of cancellation of the trip by the participant due to any other personal circumstances any deposits made are NOT refunded. At our sole discretion we may put them towards your future trips with us.
The minimum group size for this trip is 2 participants plus the guide. Should there be less, the trip will be cancelled and all deposits made will be returned in full.
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