$1960
12-26 July, 10-24 Aug 2025
10 days trekking & wild camping in Tajikistan
4 days sightseeing Silk Road cities in Uzbekistan
14 alpine lakes of stunning, surreal colors
A true off-track adventure with wild camping
![Camping beside Kulikalon lake, Fanns, Tajikistan](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/CampingBesideKulikalonLake-338x450.jpg)
The Fann mountains are the hidden gem of one of the world’s poorest countries — Tajikistan. Sunny climate, dramatic mountain faces, glittering emerald lakes, and open-hearted locals make this area a remarkable, world-class destination, still waiting to be discovered.
Our genuinely unique itinerary combines a 10-days trekking expedition in the Fann mountains of Tajikistan with 4 days of sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara, at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes.
![Snow-capped peaks reflecting in Big Allo Lake](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/P1320589-360x450.jpg)
Camp in the wild beside a surreal turquoise lake and marvel at the reflections of mighty 5,000m snow-capped peaks. Or, maybe, take a deep breath and dive in?
![Sitting by a campfire in the Fann mountains, Tajikistan](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/FannMountainsCampfire-360x450.jpg)
Strike up a meaningful conversation between your Western teammates and local Tajik porters. Once the campfire goes out, watch myriads of stars of the Milky Way, without any light pollution from big cities.
![Tajik kids](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/TajikistanLocalsKids-360x450.jpg)
Observe the traditional ways of local shepherd families. Share a gift with smiling kids and thankfully accept bread freshly baked in a traditional clay oven.
![Overlooking the ancient Silk Road City of Khiva](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/SilkRoadSightseeing-450x450.jpg)
After the trek, immerse into the vibrant swirl of oriental bazaars and blue-domed mosques in Samarkand and Bukhara — the ancient cities on the Silk Road, the capitals of Tamerlane’s empire, and objects of UNESCO cultural heritage. Sample mouth-watering Central Asian cuisine and aromatic melons. Then bring home authentic pottery, wooden carvings, metalwork or, perhaps, even a hand woven carpet!
![Map of the itinerary](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/TrekkingFannMountainsMap-450x356.jpg)
Introducing the Fann mountains
The Fann mountains, tucked in a safe north-west corner of Tajikistan well away from Afghanistan, are considered part of the Pamirs – one of the highest mountain ranges on the planet, along with the neighboring Karakoram and Himalayas, collectively known as the ‘Roof of the World’. Although lower, the Fanns are no less stunningly scenic. This range, home to hundreds of peaks, including several above 5,000m, was a playground for mountaineers behind the Iron Curtain during Soviet times. The highest point is Chimtarga Peak at 5,489m, and on Day 8 of the trek, we will cross a 4,750m col between Chimtarga and Energia Peak at 5,120m.
In the summer, the Fanns are home to a few Tajik shepherd families tending to small flocks of livestock. The mountains are marked by numerous azure and turquoise lakes, which seem to change color throughout the day as the sunlight shifts. While the water may be bone-chilling, many trekkers can’t resist taking a dip!
![Leisure afternoon at Alaudin lake](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/RestAlaudinLake-450x267.jpg)
The route forms a horseshoe, starting at the Artuch mountaineering camp. We hike along alpine lakes of striking beauty, crossing two high passes at 3,720m and 4,750m, and move into a different valley each day. After 10 days, jeeps will pick us up on a dirt track along the Archimaydan River.
On a typical day, we wake up around 6-7AM and take about two hours to have breakfast, take down our tents and prepare the stuff for the mules. Breakfast usually includes oats or other grains with berries or dry fruit and olive oil, along with cheese, bread, cookies or waffles, dark chocolate, tea and coffee.
We take advantage of the cooler morning temperatures to cover most of the day’s hiking, arriving at our campsites in time for a late lunch – all kinds of delicious soups with cheese, crisps or cookies, and fruit tea or berry drink. The afternoons are for relaxing, reading, hiking around the lakes, or taking a plunge. For dinner, we enjoy a piping hot main course, inspired by a different country’s cuisine each night. One example might be freeze-dried green beans and rice with chicken in cream sauce, or pasta with tomato & basil sauce and freeze-dried turkey.
You will most likely arrive in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, on a Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul. These flights typically land early in the morning, around 4 AM, but don’t worry—we’ve got you covered. We provide an airport transfer timed to your flight and arrange early check-in at the hotel. A driver will greet you with a name board just outside the airport and take you to our hotel in about 20 minutes. You’ll have immediate access to your room, allowing you to get some refreshing sleep before our city tour begins at 2 PM, timed to avoid the midday heat.
Just before the tour, the tour leader will do a quick check of your trekking gear to ensure everything is in order. If anything needs to be rented, there will still be time to arrange it.
One of Samarkand’s best city guides speaking perfect English will show you the city’s highlights, including Guri Amir (mausoleum of Tamerlane), Bibi-Khanym mosque, Shah-i-Zinda with its stunning blue Persian domes, and of course, the magnificent Registan complex. An air-conditioned minivan will be at our disposal for quick transfer between sites, and all admission fees are included.
In the evening, we’ll dine out together, and the tour leadrer will give a briefing on the rest of the trip.
Distance: 5.4km, duration: 2hrs.
Elevation gain/drop: 380m, camp altitude: 2,160m.
In the morning we stash anything unnecessary on the trek with our hotel. After breakfast, we load a private minivan which takes us to the border crossing point with Tajikistan in about 1 hour. The crossing is usually trouble-free and you will be required to show your passports and Uzbek/Tajik visas, in case they are required for your nationality. We cross on foot which means we will need to carry all our luggage, including the heavy duffel bags with food rations, for about 800m – that is where the teamwork starts!
On the other side, we are met by comfortable air-conditioned Toyota 4x4s. Drive time to the nearest town on the Tajik side – Panjakent – is about 30-40 minutes. The town boasts an archaeological site and a colourful, energetic bazaar. We will stop for lunch at a local restaurant serving traditional Tajik food such as hearty lamb soup and pilaf (flavorful rice dish with meat).
We then drive into the mountains for about 3 hours stopping en route to enjoy the tranquility of the mausoleum of Rudaki – a cherished Persian poet of the Middle Ages who was born in a nearby village.
The main gateway to the Fanns is Artuch – a trekking and mountaineering lodge and a campsite located at 2,160m at the foothills of the mountains amidst juniper woods. The place was founded in 1971 as a base camp for Soviet mountaineering expeditions in this region of Tajikistan and it is here that we begin our trekking adventure.
Once we pitch our tents on a grassy meadow, we set out for a warm-up trek up to the nearest lake Chukurak which usually takes about two hours roundtrip and gives us an extra opportunity to check our gear and bag the first lake in our collection of 14! We share a hearty dinner at Artuch lodge.
Distance: 11km, duration: 4-4.5hrs.
Elevation gain: 700m, camp altitude: 2,840m.
After breakfast, we meet our team of donkeys and their handlers – they will follow our trail for the next five days. You can leave up to 13kg for donkeys to carry and that allowance includes your tent. Note that during the day you will not have access to the items that you left with donkeys so you will need to carry the essential items like water, snacks and extra layers in your daypack.
After some candy-harassment by local children, we gain altitude on a well-trodden trail up the Urech river through juniper groves coming over two giant scree dams that filter the water coming from Kulikalon lakes. Once the track levels out, we find ourselves standing in awe of the glittering emerald Kulikalon lake. We pitch our tents on a cozy narrow peninsula protruding well into the lake – right in front of the snow-capped peaks of Mirali (5,120m), Maria, Rudaki, and Adamtash, known together as the Kulikalon Wall, rising steeply on the far side of the lake for almost 2,000 vertical meters!
After lunch, we set off for an easy hike around the lake through the beautifully twisted junipers known locally as ‘archa’. In the evening the guide will cook delicious dinner for you, starting our culinary journey around the globe!
Distance: 5km, duration: 3hrs.
Elevation gain: 270m, camp altitude: 2,990m.
After breakfast, we continue trekking easily along the chain of emerald-green lakes — Bibijonat, Oshkul, Lesnoe, and Kulisieh — until we reach Dushakha lake.
This is arguably one of the most breathtaking camping spots in the Fann Mountains. We set up camp on a flat, grassy patch beside a clear blue lake and a stream, all under the towering 2,000-meter north face of Mt. Mirali 5,120m. The crystal-clear water is inviting to take a dip though most can only manage a few strokes!
![Our team watching sunrise at the 2km tall Mirali wall](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/P1320183-1-450x338.jpg)
Distance: 8km, duration: 5-5.5hrs.
Elevation gain: 850m, drop: 1,100m, camp altitude: 2,800m (via 3,860m)
After breakfast, we take down our tents, load the donkeys and start climbing the 3,720m-tall Alaudin pass. As we reach the crest of the col, one of the highest peaks of the Fanns range raise in front of us — the 5,000-ers Chapdara, Bodhona, Zamok, and Ganza. Right at the foot of Mt. Chapdara we spot two irregular splashes of bright azure — Alaudin lakes, that is one vertical kilometer for us to drop.
Most likely we camp on the second smaller lake with its alien-looking twirls of intense blue and green mineral and algae deposits at the lake’s bottom beneath the crystal-clear waters. In the evening we may enjoy a campfire made of dry juniper branches.
Distance: 6.5km, duration: 4-4.5hrs.
Elevation gain: 800m, camp altitude: 3,520m
It is time to venture to high mountain terrain! We leave our cosy campsite at Alaudin lakes and trek up the valley for 5-6 hours until we reach Mutnie (‘Murky’) lakes surrounded by jagged peaks.
From this point we already can see the two giants of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.
Distance: 3km, duration: 3hrs.
Elevation gain: 600m, camp altitude: 4,100m
In the morning, while our camp is still in the shade, we observe the flaming sunrise at the two peaks of Mt Chimtarga 5,489m and Mt Energiya 5,120m.
Trekking involves crossing the lake over an artificial ’bridge’ of rocks and later on we traverse the glacier. As we reach the 4,100m camp — a barren spot with a few flat spots on a moraine ridge — we finally say goodbye to our donkeys and enjoy the sunset.
Distance: 11.5km, duration: 8-9hrs.
Elevation gain: 700m, drop: 1,600m, camp altitude: 3,150m (via 4,750m)
Today we cross Chimtarga col at 4,750m a.s.l. squeezed between the tallest summit of the Fann mountains — peak Chimtarga 5,487m — and peak Energiya 5,120m. The latter is often ascended from the col by mountaineering expeditions and requires climbing 5 pitches of ice up to 45-50 degrees steep.
We start early at 6AM to minimise the risk of rockfall. Reaching the col at almost Mont Blanc’s height without pack donkeys is a tough exercise, besides the trail traverses scree slope so with every step up you slide down a little bit.
Descending from the col on the other side requires a certain degree of sure-footedness but no special gear is required. By the lunchtime, we finally descend to the valley floor of river Zindon which in the local language means ‘dungeon’ — an apt comparison due to the steep and shady walls of the gorge. The trail continues on through two impressive boulder fields. At the sunset, we finally reach the shores of Big Allo lake at 3,100m with near-vertical granite faces abruptly dropping into its azure waters — perhaps my favourite sight in the Fann mountains!
3 hrs of optional day hiking.
Camp altitude: 3,150m
We finally deserved a full day’s rest at Big Allo aka ‘Echo’ lake, hands down one of my favourite places on Earth, with steep granite cliffs dropping abruptly to radiant azure waters, surreal twisted juniper figures on its shores, and jagged snowcapped peaks on the horizon.
The lake was formed as recently as 1916 as a consequence of a catastrophic landslide. The ensuing debris field still fills the lake’s northwestern side.
After the previous hard day, we have the luxury to wake up at 10AM, stretch our limbs, PLUNGE into the azure semi-opaque ice-cold waters and tan naked (optionally!) on our private little beach! Some of us may opt for an easy afternoon hike up another valley that involves some easy scrambling above the lake.
Distance: 7km, duration: 3-4hrs.
Elevation drop: 850m, camp altitude: 2,350m
Today we say goodbye to Big Allo — a tranquil mountain lake of extraordinary beauty. We traverse the natural dam of boulders that keeps the lake in place and for the next couple of hours, we descend further into the valley following a rough trail that crosses further landslides and moraine fields.
At some point river literally bursts from the ground and we follow its course, hopping across a few times, until we reach elongated Small Allo lake. We have lunch on the narrow coastline before plunging into the emerald waters — our final swim in the Fann Mts!
Our last campsite is the shade of a huge olive (or laurus?) tree, neatly tucked between the river and a massive bolder, right above a cascade that falls further down into the widening valley. We take in the panorama of layered mountains bathing in dramatic sunset light.
5.4km, gaining 140m and dropping 700m.
Trek from Small Allo lake to the pick up point. On the way we may be lucky to visit a local farmer’s house and get an insight of the harsh life of locals in the mountains. Jeep transfer back to the Uzbekistan border, then to Samarqand where we enjoy a proper dinner at a local kebab house!
We stash all our trekking gear at the Samarkand hotel as we will be coming back here later. Taxis take us to the train station where we board a comfortable bullet train that whisks us to Bukhara – another ancient city on the Silk Road, which has a completely different vibe from Samarkand since there was much less Soviet influence here. The streets are narrower, most of the buildings are just 1-2 floors and the city center is very much walkable, with streets full of artisan shops.
We check into a boutique family-run hotel within a renovated 19th-century Jewish house, providing a unique and authentic lodging experience.
An English-speaking local city guide will take us to the most important historical sites, sharing insights into local history, culture and present life.
Flight back home
TRIP EXTENSION: THE HIDDEN GEM OF KHIVA
The base itinerary includes four days of sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara, but why stop there? Enhance your adventure with a two-day side trip to Khiva, Uzbekistan’s third ancient city on the Silk Road, far off the beaten path.
Take an overnight sleeper train across the Kyzylkum Desert to reach this hidden gem, where 1,500 years of history await you, impeccably well preserved. Explore clay city walls, climb turquoise minarets, and haggle in bustling artisans’ quarters. Khiva’s highlight is the inner fortress of Itchan Kala – a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a living museum, with over 50 historic monuments. One of them is Djuma Mosque, renowned for its forest of 213 intricately carved wooden pillars, creating a serene, almost mystical atmosphere.
This extension includes a train ticket from Bukhara to Khiva, hotel accommodation in Khiva’s boutique hotel inside a renovated medieval madrasah, Khiva airport transfer and a return domestic flight straight to Tashkent, and a local guide for the entire two-day experience. Contact us for pricing details.
GEAR FOR TREKKING IN TAJIKISTAN
Your packing list will differ from more typical ‘teahouse’ treks. Gear rental options are scarce, and even basic items like sunscreen are hard to find once you’re in Tajikistan. Here are some essential items you’ll need to bring:
– Mug, spoon, bowl. for all your meals
– Trekking mat and sleeping bag. If you’re going to rent a tent from us, please note that it does not include a sleeping bag or mat.
– A large backpack – to fit your tent and sleeping bag during the 4 days without pack donkeys.
– TWO trekking poles. There are technical sections during the trek that require balance and sure-footedness so we require every participant to carry TWO trekking poles.
– Water treatment. The water in the lakes needs to be treated. We highly recommend Chlorine Dioxide tablets, like Katadyn Micropur, as both bacteria and viruses can be present. Filters alone may not suffice.
– Trekking Boots: Sneakers are unsuitable for this trek, as we’ll be traversing scree slopes. You can bring both sneakers and boots, but boots are a must.
– Energy bars, for a quick snack on the trail.
– European power adaptor. Sunscreen.
A full packing list will be provided well in advance of the trip.
![Pack donkeys make our trek way more enjoyable!](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/P1320129-338x450.jpg)
Accommodation in Uzbekistan
During cultural days in Samarkand and Bukhara, we stay at hand-picked family-run boutique guesthouses, , offering the charm and comfort of a solid 3-star hotel. In Bukhara, we even get to sleep in beautifully refurbished 19th-century interiors! A traditional buffet breakfast is included.
Your tour leader
Andrew Golovachev, an IFMGA aspirant ski guide within the guides’ association of Kyrgyzstan, an avid alpine climber, and devoted adventure photographer.
![P1090422](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/P1090422-1-450x225.jpg)
Ran treks, climbs, ski tours and expeditions to Tajikistan Pamirs, Patagonia, Peru, Morocco, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Siberia, Caucasus and Kamchatka. A full member of the British Alpine Club. Professional avalanche education: equivalent of Canadian Avalanche Association Level 1 certificate.
Visited over 40 countries, lived in the UK for four years. Certified first-aider.
WHY TRAVEL TO TAJIKISTAN WITH US?
Safety is the cornerstone: We are in touch with our local contacts on any potential security issues in the country. Our trips are backed by emergency satellite communication whenever we venture off the grid. Being certified first aiders, our guides carry extensive first aid kits and have alternative route plans for any unexpected scenarios.
Personalized pre-trip support: Every client who books with us gets one-on-one trip preparation phone call so that you are fully ready for your trip of a lifetime without taking much time from your daily duties. We are chatty and open to questions the moment you get in touch with us.
Fair price: European travel agencies often charge hefty premiums while simply reselling trips run by local guides. By booking with us, you receive top-tier service, as confirmed by our excellent reviews, while ensuring your money goes straight to the trip organizers. We take pride in what we offer and never cut corners on our tours. There are no hidden costs, and we are upfront about any extras you might incur.
We love good food: The rich and healthy meals we cook on the trek got glowing reviews from our guests and are better than you expect. We accommodate any meal preferences or intolerances.
The unique trekking itinerary takes you over a 4,750m high pass, offering panoramic views that valley hikers on other tours miss. We also build in rest days, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the most dramatic landscapes. Plus, unlike others, we include four sightseeing days to make your journey to Central Asia truly worthwhile.
Small groups of 8-10: we avoid the circus of mass tourism, where large groups of strangers march along with hordes of support staff. Instead, we craft our trips like specialty coffee – with small teams and meticulous attention to every detail, creating meaningful adventures of a lifetime that forge lasting friendships.
AM I FIT ENOUGH FOR TREKKING IN THE FANN MTS, TAJIKISTAN?
Most likely, yes! 🙂 Over the years, our trekking itinerary has been successfully completed by participants aged 24 to 72. Originally based on a route of an unsupported trekking expedition with friends, we’ve made it far more accessible by smartly utilizing pack donkeys and porters.
Physically, the trek is not demanding: the average hiking time is about 4 hours per day, covering 6-8 kilometers and gaining around 300-700 vertical meters on rough trails. There’s just one particularly tough day when we ascend 700 meters and descend about 1,600 meters on steep scree with some exposed sections. The guide will assist the least confident participants, using a short rope if necessary.
Don’t worry about slowing the group down if your pace is slower. A donkey handler or porter always follows behind, and the trail is usually obvious. When it’s not, the guide will wait for everyone to catch up.
Up until Day 8, while we are assisted by pack donkeys, you will be hiking with a small daypack with essentials like water, snacks, sunscreen, and extra clothing. After that, if you are fit, you can continue carrying your tent, sleeping bag and other gear over the pass and for the remaining 4 days, mostly downhill. Alternatively, you can hire a personal porter who will carry up to 20kg of your stuff. You can also share a porter and the associated costs with another participant.
![Watching the sunset at High camp at 4100m before Chimtarga pass](https://www.primalscapes.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/ChimtargaHighCamp-450x300.jpg)
The highest point of the trek is 4,750m – nearly as high as Mont Blanc – but in our experience, nobody has issues with the altitude, as we gain elevation gradually over several days, allowing plenty of time to acclimatize. The total distance of the trek is about 70km, much shorter than the Tour du Mont Blanc.
Yet trekking in Tajikistan is a unique experience, quite different from the Everest Basecamp or mainstream treks in the Alps. The Fann Mountains remain wonderfully untouched, with no lodges or pre-established tent camps, allowing us to truly immerse ourselves in the wilderness for 10 days. Staying well off the grid enables a more intimate connection with nature. We may go days without seeing any other humans. But this also means no lodges, no maintained trails and no showers – the latter being the real challenge for most participants!
If you have any doubts about your fitness for the trek, please get in touch and share your trekking background.
Booking terms
Sounds exciting? It truly is! We love the place and would be happy to share it with you. Should you have any questions, please check out our FAQ section below. Alternatively, don’t hesitate to send us your inquiry using the contact form or WhatsApp.
We require financial commitment from the participants in a form of 20% deposit paid via SEPA bank transfer or Paypal/card. The remaining balance is paid in cash or wire transfer upon arrival.
Cancellation policy
We promise a 14-day risk-free booking window: you can cancel at any point within two weeks after you put down the first deposit. This buys you time to sort out vacation and flights, to bring in your friends, etc. and not have to worry about someone else taking your spot on the trip.
In case of cancellation of the trip by the participant due to any other personal circumstances any deposits made are NOT refunded. At our sole discretion we may put them towards your future trips with us.
The minimum group size for this trip is 4 participants plus the guide. Should there be less, the trip will be cancelled and all deposits made will be returned in full.
Enquire & book
Let us know any questions or concerns via the form below and we’ll get back to you within 24hrs!
Alternatively, you can just email us at hello@primalscapes.com
We will never email you any marketing materials without your further consent. Your info will only be used to respond to your question and will never be shared with third parties.
Sightseeing in Samarkand and Bukhara
In addition to 10 days of trekking and wild camping in Tajikistan, this trip includes 3 days of sightseeing in Bukhara and Samarkand — the ancient Silk Road cities recognised as World Heritage by UNESCO.
Sights of Bukhara
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Sights of Samarkand
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